Spring blasters use a plunger system to pull back the spring before it reaches a catch which the trigger releases. The Nerf Longshot is the most commonly modified spring blaster, due to the enormous direct plunger. Flywheel blasters use a dart pusher or conveyor belt to push the darts into a flywheel, which increases the speed of the dart enough to launch it out of the blaster. The Stryfe is the most commonly modified flywheel blaster, owing to its small size and reasonable price.
A hand-saw A set of eyeglass screwdrivers Sandpaper Dremel drill or metal file Wire clippers Replacement parts, if you want to upgrade
Make a homemade Nerf sniper scope Paint a Nerf gun Make a Nerf gun shot farther Easily modify a Nerf Longshot Mod a Nerf Maverick Mod a Nerf Recon CS 6 Mod a Nerf Nite Finder
Remove the screws with your screwdriver and set them aside. Pull the two halves of the gun together to reveal the internal components. One side should just be a shell, and all the parts should be attached to the other side.
The cylinder that holds the darts should pull out without having to pull very hard. Just grab it in your hand firmly and pull it back out away from the shell of the gun. With it should come a gray or beige plastic endplate, which you’ll need to remove. Usually the endplate is attached with a little orange cap you can pop off using the flat end of a screwdriver, or just using your fingers. Don’t lose this cap, or you won’t be able to reassemble the blaster.
If you want, you can sand up the nub that you leave with some sand-paper to clean up the end. It’s not necessary, but it’ll be cleaner. Reassemble the cylinder by attaching the orange plastic end caps to each of the cylinders and putting the cylinder chamber back together. You’re ready to turn your attention to the end plates.
If you want to complete this mod, file off the nub using a metal file, or a Dremel drill. Smooth it up as much as possible to make the plastic flat, so the chamber won’t catch on it. If it doesn’t, it won’t spin right. Make sure you get help and permissions if you’re using a power tool. Reattach the end plates to the blaster and put the cylinder back in the gun. If you wanted about 5–10 feet (1. 5–3. 0 m) more distance out of your gun and the ability to spin the chamber, you’re done. Put the housing back together.
Sometimes, replacing the spring will leave you with a little gap at the back of the gun, where the spring won’t go flush with the plastic. To remedy this, you can use a small stack of pennies–three or four should do–to slot in and give the spring something to rest against. The pennies should fit into the chamber perfectly.
If you want to do this, cut off the barrel of the gun just where it meets the “body” of the gun, and discard it. Cut a length of half-inch diameter PVC pipe that matches the rough length of the barrel, and hot-glue it into place carefully, holding it to complete the seal. It’s best to glue around the outside, to avoid little nubs of glue on the inside. If you like the way the gun looks, don’t do this. Barrel replacements look pretty bootleg, and you’ll gain a little power, but make your gun look kind of ridiculous.
Even if the blaster is off, you should always remove the power source first to avoid shocking yourself.
Always look online to see what the locks are, instead of disassembling everything.
Make sure to replace all of the components, as only partially replacing the components will usually burn out the rest of them.
