4 Ways To Properly Care For Your Guinea Pigs

Small animal cages often utilise vertical space to increase living area and encourage climbing, digging, and burrowing. However, guinea pigs rely on horizontal floor space for enrichment, play, and exercise. Cages with ramps or multiple floors are not suitable for guinea pigs, as guinea pigs do not have flexible backs and aren’t good climbers. [2] X Trustworthy Source The Humane Society of the United States National organization devoted to the promotion of animal welfare Go to source With a roomier enclosure, guinea pigs are less susceptible to developing medical conditions, the likelihood of peaceful co-existence among multiple cavies increases, and your guinea pig is able to exercise on their schedule. [3] X Trustworthy Source The Humane Society of the United States National organization devoted to the promotion of animal welfare Go to source [4] X Research source

Aquariums are poorly ventilated and do not have sufficient airflow. This is because they do not have open sides, meaning the only ventilation your guinea pigs will receive would be from the top of the glass tank. Lack of ventilation can trap ammonia in the air, which is secreted through your guinea pig’s urine and faeces. This factor can dangerously lead to an upper respiratory infection and other similar health issues. [7] X Research source

Temperature. Guinea pigs prefer a temperature between 65 °F (18 °C) and 75 °F (24 °C). Your guinea pig’s cage should be positioned away from strong heat sources, such as direct sunlight, fireplaces, and heating vents. Choose a room that isn’t too cold either, such as a draft-free room with central heating during colder months. [8] X Trustworthy Source The Humane Society of the United States National organization devoted to the promotion of animal welfare Go to source Noise. Guinea pigs have sensitive hearing and do not do well being located near radios, stereos, TV’s, or loud animals and children. [9] X Trustworthy Source The Humane Society of the United States National organization devoted to the promotion of animal welfare Go to source Activity Level. Guinea pigs enjoy the company of their owners. Place your guinea pig’s cage in a room where they will receive frequent interaction from the family, such as a living room or bedroom. [10] X Trustworthy Source The Humane Society of the United States National organization devoted to the promotion of animal welfare Go to source

Aspen or kiln-dried pine wood shavings work well to absorb urine and odour; however, these types of bedding must be cleaned at least once a week to reduce ammonia build-up. [11] X Research source Do not purchase cedar shavings, as the phenols (aromatic oils) have been proven to harm guinea pig’s health and cause respiratory issues and liver damage. [12] X Research source If you are purchasing pine shavings, make sure to look for kiln-dried or dust-extracted pine; otherwise, pine shavings will have the same effect. Fleece is another popular option, essentially for indoor C & C cages, because it’s soft on their feet and reusable. While fleece is economical and can save on costs, it’s also high-maintenance. Fleece requires daily spot-cleaning and needs to be changed every 3-4 days at a minimum. Alternatively, you may need to pair fleece with some additional materials or bedding. Fleece isn’t absorbent; rather it allows the urine to soak through. [13] X Research source Paper bedding, such as CareFresh, is often a preferred alternative to wood shavings, as they are made of a softer material and do not risk dust or phenols being absorbed through the lungs. The disadvantage of paper bedding is, while it has a moderate absorbency, it’s often high cost and looks dirty even with the cage just being cleaned. [14] X Research source Avoid cedar shavings, corn cob bedding, wood pellets, cat litter, straw, and sand. [15] X Research source These types of bedding are dangerous, as they can lead to an array of health problems, including URI’s and pododermatitis.

Be mindful of the measurements. You can choose to place all your vegetables in one bowl or purchase separate bowls for each guinea pig. Your guinea pig will also need an additional smaller bowl to contain their pellets (1/8 cup per guinea pig).

With that being said, water bowls can be quite messy and may easily tip. This is particularly true if you use wood shavings, as the shavings can easily be kicked into the bowl.

Because guinea pigs are quite territorial, they need at least one hiding spot per guinea pig and an extra hiding spot to establish a neutral space for the dominant guinea pig to claim.

While toys are an important part of your guinea pig’s cage to provide them with enrichment and mental stimulation, it’s important not to overcrowd their cage. If your cage is on the small side, place only a few toys inside and alternate between toys each time you re-arrange or clean the cage. Do not purchase exercise wheels or balls. These toys are designed for mice and hamsters but aren’t suitable for guinea pigs. Placing your guinea pig inside one of these toys could result in spinal injury. [16] X Research source

Guinea pigs can consume several types of hay, including timothy, orchard, meadow, oaten, and barley hay. Fresh grassy hay that is soft and pliable with a sweet scent and natural green colour is the best variety of hay you can offer to your guinea pig. Do not feed your guinea pig straw. While straw is easily mistaken for hay, you can generally detect whether you’re buying hay or straw by the consistency and yellow colour. Because of its hard-stemmed texture, straw should not be given to guinea pigs. Straw does not contain enough fibre to sustain your guinea pig’s digestive system. Do not restrict your guinea pig’s hay in racks, balls, hammocks, or pouches. Hay should be placed directly on the floor of their cage in large bundles to encourage healthy eating, foraging, and play. Hay racks are not only dangerous to guinea pigs, as they can trap their heads between the wires, but they discourage your guinea pigs from natural grazing. Avoid lucerne, alfalfa, or clover hay. These varieties of hay are too high in calcium and protein to be fed to adult guinea pigs. However, alfalfa can be fed to pregnant or nursing sows and guinea pig pups under 6 months of age.

Do not purchase rabbit and guinea pig food. Rabbits have different dietary needs to that of guinea pigs; therefore, it’s unlikely the pellets are fortified with vitamin C or other nutrients your guinea pig needs. [20] X Research source Steer clear of alfalfa-hay based pellets. While these pellets can be fed to guinea pigs under 6 months of age and pregnant or nursing sows, they are too high in calcium to be fed to adult guinea pigs. [21] X Research source When purchasing and storing your pellets, purchase the smallest and freshest bag possible. Vitamin C degrades over-time, particularly in warm weather, so it’s not advised to purchase your pellets in bulk. Once the vitamin C has degraded, the pellets have no use to guinea pigs. Store your pellets in a dark, dry, and cool area within your home. [22] X Research source

Guinea pigs can have a variety of fresh vegetables from cucumber, carrots, spinach, kale, bok choy, asparagus, corn, peas, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, tomato, and bell peppers. The only vegetable guinea pigs can eat on a daily basis are bell peppers, as they are high in vitamin C, which is essential to your guinea pig’s diet. Every other vegetable must be limited 2-4 times a week depending on its nutrient content. High calcium vegetables such as kale and spinach should be limited to 1-2 times a week to prevent bladder stones and calcium sludge from forming in older guinea pigs. Iceberg lettuce should never be fed to guinea pigs. Most lettuces are too high in water and lack nutrients to be able to be consumed by guinea pigs without health consequences.

You can give your guinea pigs water in a bottle or bowl. A water bottle is recommended, as guinea pigs are notorious for tipping their bowls.

If you do choose to purchase your guinea pigs some treats for a special occasion, pea flakes and baked oxbow treats are a few suitable options. Give only 1-2 treats a day. Refrain from purchasing treats with seeds, nuts, grains, or other unhealthy morsels. Most muesli bars are unhealthy. A timothy-hay parsley bowl or bar may be a more suitable option. Any treats with dairy, such as yogurt drops, shouldn’t be fed to guinea pigs because they are lactose intolerant. Fruits are a healthier alternative to feed to guinea pigs. However, because fruits are also high in sugar, they must be limited to 1-2 times a day.

This applies to multivitamin wheels, salt blocks, pumice stones, and vitamin C drops. Vitamin C drops should only be administered if your guinea pig is sick or you’ve been advised to do so by a well-experienced exotic vet. With a well-balanced diet of fresh vegetables and pellets, your guinea pig should be consuming enough vitamin C on their own. Adding vitamin C supplements to their water or food can discourage your guinea pig from eating or drinking.

Keep male guinea pigs in pairs of two to avoid aggression and territorial dominance. Boars are generally more hostile than sows and are harder to introduce in groups. Sows can be kept in groups of three or more, as they are easier to introduce than boars and can co-exist peacefully in a normal-sized cage. If you plan on introducing a new cavy to the cage, always adopt a younger guinea pig to that of your current guinea pig. Younger guinea pigs don’t pose as much of a risk, as they are smaller and less intimidating.

Hand-feed your guinea pigs vegetables and fruits when they are most hungry to establish a trusting relationship. Guinea pigs bond better with people they can associate with food since guinea pigs are food-oriented animals.

Once your guinea pig has adjusted to your presence, see if they allow you to stroke or pet them. If your guinea pig doesn’t flinch or hide-away, they likely trust you and won’t mind you picking them up.

The importance of floor time is to allow your guinea pig to exercise and explore in a new environment, promoting mental stimulation and enrichment. Place a few obstacles and toys in a guinea pig proofed area, such as tunnels, igloos, ramps, and blocks, and allow your guinea pig to play and explore.

Start by emptying the contents of the cage and putting them aside – plastic igloos, hammocks, tunnels, ceramic dishes, water bowls, litter tray, etc. Empty the bedding into a bin liner using a dust-pan and brush. Thoroughly scrub down the base of the cage with a pet-friendly disinfectant, or with three parts water and one part white vinegar. Rinse the base of the cage and grids with warm water and allow to dry. Clean and disinfect your guinea pig’s toys, water bottle, food bowl, and litter tray with a pet-friendly disinfectant and allow to rinse and dry. Line the base of the cage with newspaper or puppy pads and place 2 inches of fresh bedding inside. Finish by placing all your guinea pig’s items (toys, hides, food bowls) back inside the cage.

Additionally to this, you should brush your guinea pig’s coat at least once a week to minimise shedding. Long-haired breeds, such as Peruvian and Shelties, require regular coat grooming to maintain their long hair. Only bathe your guinea pig once or twice a year. Guinea pigs do not need frequent bathing, as they are quite capable of keeping themselves clean. If your guinea pig is smelly, it could be the type of bedding you use. Frequent bathing can cause unintentional stress and irritate your guinea pig’s skin.

Weigh your guinea pig at the same time each day. Do not alternate between weighing before or after your guinea pig has eaten. Otherwise, this will cause confusion. One ounce weight fluctuation is normal, and two ounce weight fluctuation should put you on alert. However, two ounces is not medically serious. [29] X Research source Three to four ounces of weigh fluctuation is when you need to be on extreme alert and notify a vet. Particularly if you see a pattern of weight loss. [30] X Research source

Additionally, perform a general examination on a weekly basis at home. Check your guinea pig’s fur, skin, eyes, mouth, teeth, nose, feet, and underside.