If the shutoff valves won’t stop the flow of water completely, you’ll have to replace them. Unless you have some plumbing experience, this may be a job best left to a professional.
You don’t need to remove the P-trap to replace the sink, but you may want to remove it temporarily so you can clear it of debris. To take it out, unscrew the nut (by hand or with channel locks) that connects the bottom of the P-trap to the drain line below. Place a bucket or heavy towel at the bottom of the cabinet to catch any dripping water.
You can reuse these water lines if you want—just disconnect them from the underside of the sink later, then reattach them during installation. But this is also a good time to replace them.
You’ll likely have to replace the countertop as well if you want a new sink that’s a different size.
Ask an employee for assistance if you need help selecting a new sink. Make sure the new sink’s drain lines up with your old drain line, or else you’ll have to rework the plumbing. [6] X Expert Source Allen LeeHome Improvement Specialist Expert Interview. 10 July 2020. Most bathroom sinks are still made of ceramic, but there are other options, and many colors to choose from beyond the traditional white.
If your new sink requires clips, it should come with them. However, you may want to keep these old ones for the time being, just in case they might come in handy.
Work slowly and carefully so you don’t cut into the countertop, especially if it’s made of laminated wood. Of course, if you’re replacing the countertop as well, you can be as messy as you like!
If you have a cast-iron sink, have someone else help you lift it since it could be pretty heavy. [11] X Expert Source Allen LeeHome Improvement Specialist Expert Interview. 10 July 2020. Once the old sink is out of the way, scrape away any residual caulk or sealant on the countertop. Use a plastic putty knife for scraping, then clean up any residue with a rag dipped in mineral spirits.
Faucet and drain installations will vary quite a bit based on the particular brand and model you select. However, with a good set of instructions, it is a project most DIYers can handle. Otherwise, contact a plumber.
Choose a silicone caulk intended for use with bathroom fixtures. Don’t use acrylic or other non-silicone caulks.
This job may be a bit easier if you have a second person reach up from inside the cabinet to support the sink from below.
Not all sinks require clips for installation. If your model does use clips, they should come in the package with your new sink. If you’re missing a clip or 2, it’s possible that the clips from your old sink may work.
Use the same silicone caulk you used to adhere the underside of the sink to the countertop.
This caulk helps to hold the undermount sink in place but is primarily there to prevent water from getting between the sink rim and the underside of the counter.
If they’re attached with screws, simply use a screwdriver to remove them. If they are stuck in place with epoxy, use a putty knife to scrape, pry, and wedge the clips apart from the underside of the counter. Once you remove the clips, the sink will be free to fall, so make sure it’s being held up by someone!
Installing a faucet is within the skill set of most DIYers, but the process differs based on the type and model of faucet. Closely follow the instructions that come with the new faucet.
Like the stuff you removed from the old sink, this caulk is mostly there for waterproofing, but also helps hold the sink in place.
Make sure the clamp is tight enough to make the some of the silicone caulk squeeze out between the rim of the sink and the underside of the counter. Wipe away this excess caulk with a damp rag.
In most cases, the clips are adhered in place with a 2-part epoxy that hardens in about 10 minutes after being combined. Follow the product instructions carefully and apply the proper amount to each clip. Then press them into place as per the installation instructions for your sink.
Like faucets, drain installations vary by type and brand, but the process is DIY-friendly if you follow the instructions carefully. You could rely on the epoxy to hold everything in place after 10 minutes and not wait the full 24 hours before proceeding, but this is not recommended. Be patient!
If you’re installing an undermount sink, you should already have waited 24 hours before putting in the sink drain. In this case, you can proceed with the last steps of the installation.
If your new sink drain is a little shorter than your old one, you can buy a P-trap pipe extension at your local hardware store. The extension can be cut to fit and will also connect in place with a nut that you’ll either hand-tighten or secure with channel locks. If your new sink drain is a little too long, you can cut off some of the pipe either at the top of the P-trap or the bottom of the drain. Use a hacksaw or pipe cutter to make the adjustment.
Keep the bucket or towel at the bottom of the sink cabinet while you test for leaks. If you have a leak at a pipe connection, try shutting off the water, undoing the connection, wrapping some plumber’s tape around the pipe threads, and then re-making the connection. If you can’t figure out where a leak is coming from and/or how to fix it, shut off the water supply lines and call a plumber.
