Cats also scratch to scent-mark territorial areas with their paws, which have scent glands usually indistinguishable to humans, but very distinct to other cats, dogs, and many other pets and animals.
Over time, with repeated loving practice, your cat should become used to leaving the furniture alone and using alternatives for their scratching.
When purchasing the scratching post, there are some things to consider initially. Look for one that is at least as tall as your cat when he/she stands on his/her hind legs. Ensure that it is sturdy and cannot wobble when pressure is applied to it by your cat. Make sure that the scratching post isn’t heavy and tall, or it may fall on your cat. Scratching boards and posts come in different sizes and uses. Some are flat on the floor and some are raised. Some are made of hemp. Try different types. It is better to have too many around, than not enough. Some cats prefer to scratch on a horizontal surface like the carpet. Orientate the scratch post horizontally or vertically to match their preference and they will be more likely to use it. There are cardboard, sisal, and carpet based options for horizontal surfaced scratching. [3] X Research source Whatever you choose, avoid anything fluffy. A cat’s scratching post must be like tree bark (their natural scratching element), rough and coarse. [4] X Research source Posts with sisal fiber rope wound around them are best, and the scratchier it is, the less inviting your heirloom needlework pieces will seem.
If you have just gotten a cat, place the post where it might be likely that a new cat would try to scratch. If the cat is marking and scratching in multiple areas, create “good” scratching opportunities in each of those areas. It’s a really good idea to have more than one scratching post, especially if you have upstairs and downstairs areas, your house is large, or you have more than one cat. This will lessen the probability that your cat will resort to furniture in other rooms without scratching posts. If your cat is always scratching the chair you sit in most, locate a scratching post near it. You could also leave a piece of your laundry on the top of the scratching post for a while, or use its top tray as a drop spot for personal items, so that your cat sees it as part of your territorial marker, like your favorite chair. This is especially relevant if your cat is extremely attached to one person in the household. Putting the scratching post or cat tree in close contact with their favorite sofa or chair can make it even more enticing.
If you want to make the post more inviting, rub catnip or spray catnip oil onto the post. [5] X Research source Every time your cat uses the scratching post, offer it praise and give it a pat and a treat. [6] X Research source Some suggest that you encourage your cat by gently placing his front paws onto the post and even moving the paws up and down on it, but warn that many cats hate being forced to do anything and this can have a very negative effect. [7] X Research source Alternatively, you could even “show” your cat how to scratch using your own fingernails. You can also dangle a toy over the scratching post so that it bangs against the post. This should draw your cat’s attention to the pole; In swiping at the toy, he or she may discover the joy of scratching the pole behind it. Another method of conditioning your cat to like their scratching post is to withhold your greeting upon returning home until you reach the scratching post. Stand at the post and scratch it with your nails, telling your cat how happy you are to see them. When they come near the post and start clawing it, stop scratching it yourself and start stroking the cat while they scratches the post, all the while praising them for being such a good cat. [8] X Research source
For instance, if you notice your cat exhibiting nervousness or dislike of the scratching post, try tilting it onto its side. This will make it smaller and less threatening while the cat gets used to it. [9] X Research source Cats develop preferences for scratching surfaces or substrates. Use the surface your cat prefers. This may be sisal rope, carpeting, cardboard, or drapery fabric or something else entirely. Transitioning your cat to a new scratching post or surface will be much more successful if you work with your cat’s tendencies, not against them.
Another way to curb clawing is to toss a can of pebbles or pennies to land near the cat (do not throw it at them) to startle them. Try not to let the cat see that you threw it. This way, it appears triggered by the scratching, and has nothing to do with you. That way the cat is less likely to scratch when you are away, because they don’t associate you directly with the punishment. Then, pick them up and place them next to the scratching pole as a means of conditioning. Don’t sound angry or go into a nasty tirade against your cat; remember they are simply following instincts and you’re the higher-level being with the ability to control your emotional outburst. Never scold your cat when they are near or using the scratching post. They need to associate the scratching post with all things pleasant and happy.
Again, this can also cause the cat to link your presence to getting sprayed, so they may do their scratching when you are not there. You can also use a citrus oil mix to deter your cat. Some cats are repelled by the scent of orange oil. Mix equal parts, about a cap-full each, of eucalyptus oil and orange oil in a spray bottle of water. You can test this on your cat by putting a small amount on a damp cloth and present it close to their nose. You will need to shake the contents before each use as the oil and water will separate after a short time. Using this method not only helps to deter your cat from destroying furniture or walls, but gives your house a pleasant and fragrant odor as well.
Apply double-sided tape to the furniture. [12] X Research source Cats dislike the sticky feeling and won’t continue to stick their claws wherever it’s sticky, as the hairless skin of the cat’s paws is extremely sensitive to touch. [13] X Research source For larger furniture, adhere masking tape over the arms, or on the back of the furniture where the cat will often enjoy playing (and hiding from water spritzing). For a larger area, such as a rug or carpet, leave contact sheets sticky side up over the surface you want to protect. [14] X Research source You can also buy a product called “Sticky Paws,” which are medical grade adhesive sticky strips that can go on curtains, drapes, carpets, and anything else that might be a bit too tempting for your cat. [15] X Research source Use the “knobby” side of a plastic or vinyl floor runner along the back of the couch to deter scratching. The cat won’t like the feel of the pointy knobs on their feet. For cats who seem to live it up when you’re at work or away from home, cover the furniture in plastic covers. Cats are not fond of walking over plastic because of its smell and feel. [16] X Research source You could also try placing blown-up balloons hidden underneath a sheet covering the furniture which will burst when clawed, causing the cat a fright that will be associated with that piece of furniture long after the balloon has popped. [17] X Research source If buying new furniture, consider getting a tight weaved chenille or microfiber fabric as opposed to a tweed-like fabric. Cats will not be interested in those types of fabrics as they won’t be able to get their claws through. Cats will scratch any furniture made with a thin loose-weaved fabric. Also consider using a “Scat mat” to deter cats from certain surfaces and areas.
These products can be found online at various retailers.
If the cat does wander in, shoo him out abruptly so that he associates it with being “out of bounds. "
If you don’t know how to clip a cat’s claws, ask your vet to show you how to do this the first time, as it is easy to hurt the cat badly if you don’t what you’re doing. [18] X Research source [19] X Research source A cat that is not used to claw clipping can be a little bothered by it initially but you need to persevere until they are comfortable with it. Again, praise your cat while your are trimming their claws so that they know you are caring. It is useful to “blunt” the tips of the claws of an indoor cat that never has access to outdoor trees. You can do this with toenail clippers (never use claw clippers made for dogs) but you must know the correct cutting line to avoid injuring the cat. Ask your veterinarian or a groomer to show you this for the first time. [20] X Research source
While it is still legal to declaw a cat in most (but not all) cities in the United States and Canada, there are some ethical considerations. Declawing is considered to be an act of cruelty, and is thus illegal in Europe and other countries. A significant proportion of cats having undergone declawing refuse to use the cat litter, develop aggressive behaviour (mainly biting and hissing), and show signs of intense stress and fear. It also makes them more vulnerable to predators, and does not allow them to stretch properly. Do your research and make sure that you understand all that you need to know in order to make the decision to amputate the ends of your cat’s toes. [21] X Research source [22] X Research source Jen Swiderski, Onychectomy and its alternatives in the feline patient; Clinical Techniques in Small Animal Practice, Vol 17, No 4 (November), 2002: pp 158-161. The declawing procedure involves amputating the digit at the last joint of your cat’s front paws. Talk to your veterinarian if you think declawing is your choice. Some cats do fine but others suffer from chronic pain and, later, arthritis. [23] X Research source Note that if you have a cat that goes outdoors, declawing their front paws may affect their ability to climb and defend themselves. [24] X Research source Check the adoption or purchase contract for your cat. Some rescue groups and adoption agencies have “do not declaw” clauses in the contract you signed to allow your cat to live in your home.
